Behind the Gates: Kyoto Imperial Palace | 與皇宮有約 : 春遊天皇故居 - 京都御所
文：筱晴, Eileen Hsieh | 圖：Eileen Hsieh
One dilemma shared by many tourists in Japan is that there are too many beautiful places to visit but never enough time. Therefore to make the most of our upcoming trip, we scroll through numerous blogs and guidebooks and come up with an itinerary based on a list of mutually agreed, must-visit destinations.
Two of the sights on our list are the Imperial Palaces in Kyoto and Tokyo, which offer free guided tours but require advanced online application. (Please see the end of the article for guidelines.)
到日本深度旅遊就會發現，有太多想看的地方，但永遠不夠時間。所以這次出發前，我們很認真地做功課，參考了無數部落格和旅遊指南，挑選出一長串不能錯過的景點後，才開始編製行程表。
大部分的名勝古跡只需買票就能進場參觀，但是日本王室所擁有的皇宮平常不對外開放，所以旅客們必須先到王室官方網站上預位，才有機會免費跟隨著專業嚮導遊覽宮殿內部。
我們選擇了兩座皇宮，一是有千年歷史的京都御所，一是現在天皇居住的東京皇宮。（預票方法請看文章下方。）
KYOTO IMPERIAL PALACE
In 794 A.D., the capital of Japan was relocated from Nara to Heian-kyo (later renamed Kyoto) by Emperior Kanmu.
Heian-kyo was laid out in a grid pattern similar to that of the previous capital, approximately 5.3km in distance from north to south, and 4.5km from east to west.
京都御所
西元794年，日本桓武天皇將都城從奈良的平城京遷至京都的平安京。
平安京是一座南北長約5.3 公里，東西長約 4.5公里的方形區域。在東西的正中央，有一條貫通南北的朱雀大路（現在叫千本通），將京城分為左京（東方）和右京（西方）兩部分。像圍棋的棋盤格一樣，大街小巷貫穿其間，進行嚴整的規劃。
Kyoto Imperial Palace had remained the official residence of the Japanese royal family for over one thousand years until 1869, when the imperial court was transferred to Edo (today's Tokyo).
Although the imperial residence is walled and not normally open to the public, the vast leafy surrounding is a popular playground for the local residents.
The guided tour takes us through Shodaibunoma (reception room for dignitaries), Shinmikurumayose (where the imperial vehicles are stored), before entering the grounds of the main hall, Shishinden.
京都御所曾是天皇或皇室主要成員的居所，歷經千年之久，位於京都市中心。宮內幅員廣闊，林木蓊鬱，外圍土城牆，南北約450米，東西約250米，呈方形，面積約11萬平方米。在平安時代被稱為「內里」，經多次整修，現今的內里為1855年安政時代仿造平安樣式重建，稱之為「安政內里」，外圍修建成公園，卵石散步道，現已成為京都市民的最佳休憩處。
我們從參觀者出入口的「清所門」進入皇宮，開始京都御所的導覽。首先到「新御車寄」，這裡是獲准觐見者正式進宮謁見時的正門。接著到「諸大夫之間」，觐見者在此等候天皇召見。然後參觀「內里」最主要的建築 -- 紫宸殿。
Shishinden, featuring a traditional hip-and-gable roof and a white gravel garden, is the most important ceremonial building within the palace grounds and had hosted a number of enthronement ceremonies of Emperors throughout its time.
「紫宸殿」為正殿，是天皇即位和接受朝賀的地方，大正天皇和昭和天皇都在此登基。這是京都御所象徵性的代表建築物，以「入母屋檜皮葺」形式的高床式皇家特色的宮殿建築。殿旁台階，東面植左近之櫻，西面植右近之橘，前面是白沙鋪地的南庭。
Behind the main hall you'll find Seiryoden -- the “Habitual Residence” -- which has a roof primarily made of layered Japanese cypress bark. This is where the Emperor would conduct daily personal affairs or receive visiting nobles.
Rites reading would take place in the nearby study hall Ogakumonjo, and its courtyard would serve as the field where the Emperor would play cuju -- an ancient ball game similar to modern day football.
「清涼殿」位於紫宸殿後部，也是採用「入母屋檜皮葺」的構造，但地板比紫宸殿低很多，建築內部隔間也較多，充分說明這裡原來是天皇日常生活起居的地方。庭園白沙鋪地，兩側種有吳竹，漢竹。
「小御所」面對著御池庭，也是「入母屋檜皮葺」的建築樣式，這裡用來舉辦各種儀式，也是天皇與將軍及諸侯會面的地方。「御學問所」位於小御所的北面，有書院風格，用來做學問之地。在小御所和御學問所之間的四角庭院，用來做蹴鞠活動的地方，就是「蹴鞠庭」。
Across from the study hall is the picturesque Oikeniwa Garden. Landscaped in traditional Japanese style, it features a spacious pond with strolling pathway, a footbridge and a shoreline covered with pebble stones.
「御池庭」是以大池塘為中心的回游式庭院。池中有三個小島，為一池三山格局。中島為蓬萊島，建成龜島模樣，並植有松樹，比喻松龜祝壽。南北島比中島大，南島有優美弧線的櫸橋，北島則有古樸的石橋。對岸有茂密的樹林，四季可欣賞到不同的景色。
The final stop of the tour is Otsunegoten -- the "Everyday Palace". This was the Emperor's residence, and also the largest structure of the palace with 15 spacious rooms featuring high ceiling, sliding doors and tatami flooring.
最後行至「御常御殿」，作為天皇日常生活起居的御殿，曾幾次搬動，在平安遷都當時使用仁壽殿，後來遷往清涼殿，不久因清涼殿居住條件不足，豐成秀吉就建了別棟「御常御殿」，內部有15房間，書院式風格，這是京都御所最大的御殿。
As we approach the edge of the palace, we are again mesmerized by the lushness of the grounds and the beauty of the architecture. Unlike many royal palaces around the world, there's no eye-catching grandeur here, only the texture, smell and colors of nature that can be felt as you immerse yourself in this tranquil, elegant space.
It was good to be the Emperor.
參觀完各處宮殿後，深深感受到日本人對文物保護的意識非常強烈，所有建築都原汁原味的保存良好。因為採取預約制，可以控管進出人數，提昇參觀品質。又因導覽者是專業人士，對歷史古蹟非常瞭解，一堂課聽下來，讓我認識不少日本的古代歷史。
解散後，大家各自在庭園拍照。滿園松綠，典雅古樸的皇宮，在冷冽的二月中，為千年風華的歲月，做一番忠實的見證。
預約參觀時間程序 Tour Reservation Guidelines
1. 請到日本宮內廳事務所（日/英版）。
Visit the website of Imperial Household Agency (available in Japanese and English).
http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english
2. 請按位於頁面右上方的「Application For Visit」(參觀申請）。
Click on the "Application For Visit" button on top right of the page
3. 請選擇第一個框框 -「參觀申請」。
Click on the first box on the page - "Application For Visit"
4. 請選擇「京都御所」。
Select "Kyoto Imperial Palace"
5. 請選擇導遊解說語言與遊覽時間長度。
Choose preferred language and length of the tour.
6. 請選擇首選參觀月份。
Choose the preferred month for your visit.
7. 請選擇首選日期與時間（藍色代表還有空位）。
Choose the preferred Date & Time for your visit (only the times in BLUE are available)
8. 請填寫申請人訊息表格。
Fill out the applicant details form.
9. 請選擇是要現在就填寫訪問成員的個人訊息，還是以後再填寫。
You can choose to enter visiting member's details now ("Type Member's Information") or upload them later ("Edit Member's Information and Upload Later")
10. 申請完成！去京都御所前記得要把申請證明email打印出來，還要帶護照喔！
Application complete! Don't forget to print out the confirmation email and BRING YOUR PASSPORT!